Total ethics fashion book references

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Introducing fashion, and our need for a total ethics fashion system

  1. Pressman L. Fashion color trend report: New York Fashion Week autumn/winter 2021/2022. [Internet]. Carlstadt (US): Pantone; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.pantone.com/articles/fashion-color-trend-report/new-york-fashion-week-autumn-winter-2021-2022

  2. Kelleher K. Bottega Veneta green was fashion’s favourite colour. What happens next?. [Internet]. New York: Refinery 29; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.refinery29.com/en-au/2021/11/10766642/bottega-veneta-green

  3. Bateman K. Breaking down the green trend sweeping the fashion world. [Internet]. New York; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/green-fashion-trend-explained

  4. Adegeest D. How Bottega green became the trendiest colour in fashion. [Internet]. Amsterdam: Fashion United; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/how-bottega-green-became-the-trendiest-colour-in-fashion/2021102158612

  5. Afifa B. What is social media’s impact on fast fashion? An investigation. [Internet]. Toronto: Fashion Takes Action; c2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://fashiontakesaction.com/articles/what-is-social-medias-impact-on-fast-fashion-an-investigation/

  6. Unsustainable consumption of fashion. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/mass-consumerism

  7. de Freitas Netto S, Soral M, et al. “Concepts and forms of green-washing: a systematic review”. Environmental Sciences Europe. 2020. 32: 19. https://enveurope.springeropen.com/articles/10.1186/s12302-020-0300-3

  8. Delmas M, Burbano V. “The drivers of greenwashing”. California Management Review. 2011. 54: 1; 64-87. https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1525/cmr.2011.54.1.64

  9. Bryce E. Are clothes made from recycled materials really more sustainable?. [Internet]. London: The Guardian; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2021/nov/06/clothes-made-from-recycled-materials-sustainable-plastic-climate

  10. Synthetics anonymous: fashion brands’ addiction to fossil fuels. [Internet]. London: Changing Markets Foundation; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://changingmarkets.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/SyntheticsAnonymous_FinalWeb.pdf

  11. Rauturier S. What you need to know about fast fashion brands’ ‘eco’ collections. [Internet]. Sydney: Good On You; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://goodonyou.eco/fast-fashion-eco-collections/

  12. Truth about Fur. Sustainable fur – international fur federation. 2018 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JC8HmyTRdg&t=4s

  13. Hakansson E, Carter N, et al. Under their skin: leather’s impact on the planet. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/under-their-skin

  14. L Booth. “Environment and nature: the natural environment in Native American thought”. Encyclopaedia of the History of Science, Technology, and Medicine in Non-Western Cultures. 2008. 809-810. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4020-4425-0_8568

  15. Solomonian L, Di Ruggiero E. “The critical intersection of environmental and social justice: a commentary”. Globalization and Health. 2021. 17: 30. https://globalizationandhealth.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/s12992-021-00686-4

  16. Cline E. Could living wages help solve fashion’s climate crisis? New research says yes. [Internet]. Jersey City: Forbes; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.forbes.com/sites/elizabethlcline/2022/01/17/could-living-wages-help-solve-fashions-climate-crisis-new-research-says-yes/?sh=2097b6506b27

  17. Warren K, Hadden J. The 15 richest people in the fashion industry, ranked. [Internet]. New York: Business Insider; 2020 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.businessinsider.com/the-richest-fashion-designers-and-brand-moguls-in-the-world-2017-9

  18. Ritchie H. Humans make up just 0.01% of Earth’s life – what’s the rest?. [Internet]. Oxford: Our World in Data; 2019 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://ourworldindata.org/life-on-earth

  19. Greenfield P, Benato M. Animal populations experience average decline of almost 70% since 1970, report reveals. [Internet]. London: The Guardian; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2022/oct/13/almost-70-of-animal-populations-wiped-out-since-1970-report-reveals-aoe

  20. Deforestation and biodiversity destruction for fashion. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/deforestation-and-biodiversity

  21. Hakansson E. Cruelty is out of fashion: an overview of the fashion industry’s policies on wild animal products. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/fashion-wild-animal-exploitation

  22. The science of animal welfare. [Internet]. San Francisco: Faunalytics; 2016 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://faunalytics.org/science-animal-welfare/

  23. Hakansson E, Halliday C, et al. Under their skin: leather’s impact on animals. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/under-their-skin

  24. Non-human animals. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; c2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/non-humans

  25. Greenhouse gas emissions. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; c2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/greenhouse-gas-emissions

  26. Human animals. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; c2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/humans

  27. Hakansson E, Vance U, et al. Under their skin: leather’s impact on people. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/under-their-skin

Where fashion is today 

  1. Morriss-Kay G.” The evolution of human artistic creativity”. Journal of Anatomy. 2009. 216 (2): 158-176. https://doi.org/10.1111%2Fj.1469-7580.2009.01160.x

  2. Remy N, Speelman E, Swartz S. Style that’s sustainable: a new fast-fashion formula. [Internet]. Paris: McKinsey; 2016 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.mckinsey.com/capabilities/sustainability/our-insights/style-thats-sustainable-a-new-fast-fashion-formula

  3. Day of 8 billion. [Internet]. Geneva: United Nations; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.un.org/en/dayof8billion

  4. Monroe R. Ultra-fast fashion is eating the world. [Internet]. Washington: The Atlantic; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.theatlantic.com/magazine/archive/2021/03/ultra-fast-fashion-is-eating-the-world/617794/

  5. Kelly C. Australians buy almost 15kg of clothes every year and most of it ends up in landfill, report finds. [Internet]. Sydney: Guardian Australia; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/australia-news/2022/jul/20/australians-buy-almost-15kg-of-clothes-every-year-and-most-of-it-ends-up-in-landfill-report-finds

  6. Algamal A. New shocking facts about the impact of fast fashion on our climate. [Internet]. Oxford: Oxfam; 2019 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.oxfam.org.uk/oxfam-in-action/oxfam-blog/new-shocking-facts-about-the-impact-of-fast-fashion-on-our-climate/

  7. Loetscher S. Changing fashion: the clothing and textile industry at the brink of radical transformation. [Internet]. Zurich: WWF Switzerland; 2017 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.wwf.ch/sites/default/files/doc-2017-09/2017-09-WWF-Report-Changing_fashion_2017_EN.pdf

  8. Textiles in Europe’s circular economy. [Internet]. Copenhagen: European Environmental Agency; 2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.eea.europa.eu/publications/textiles-in-europes-circular-economy

  9. A new textile economy: redesigning fashion’s future. [Internet]. Isle of Wight (GB): Ellen Macarthur Foundation; 2017 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/a-new-textiles-economy

  10. Teh C. A mountain of unsold clothing from fast-fashion retailers is piling up in the Chilean desert. [Internet]. New York: Business Insider; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.insider.com/discarded-fast-fashion-clothes-chile-desert-2021-11

  11. Unsustainable consumption of fashion. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/mass-consumerism

  12. Kokoroko F, Inveen C. Ghana’s vintage enthusiasts give new life to Western clothing waste. [Internet]. London: Reuters; 2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.reuters.com/lifestyle/ghanas-vintage-enthusiasts-give-new-life-western-clothing-waste-2022-12-28/

  13. Besser L. Dead white man’s clothes. [Internet]. Sydney: ABC News; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.abc.net.au/news/2021-08-12/fast-fashion-turning-parts-ghana-into-toxic-landfill/100358702

  14. Ricketts L. This is not your goldmine. This is our mess. [Internet]. New York: Atmos; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://atmos.earth/fashion-clothing-waste-letter-ghana/

  15. Simpliciano L, Galvin M, et al. Fashion Transparency Index 2022. [Internet]. London: Fashion Revolution; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://issuu.com/fashionrevolution/docs/fti_2022

  16. Preferred fiber and materials market report 2021. [Internet]. Lamesa (US): Textile Exchange; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://textileexchange.org/app/uploads/2021/08/Textile-Exchange_Preferred-Fiber-and-Materials-Market-Report_2021.pdf

  17. Hakansson E. The IPCC’s mitigation of climate change report explained, and what it means for the fashion industry. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/articles/the-ipccs-mitigation-of-climate-change-report-explained-and-what-it-means-for-the-fashion-industry

  18. Fossil fashion: the hidden reliance of fast fashion on fossil fuels. [Internet]. London: Changing Markets Foundation; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://changingmarkets.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/FOSSIL-FASHION_Web-compressed.pdf

  19. Boele R, Brodie M, et al. Resources, energy and modern slavery. [Internet]. Sydney: Australian Human Rights Commission; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://humanrights.gov.au/sites/default/files/document/publication/ahrc_kpmg_modern_slavery_energy_2021_.pdf

  20. Global slavery index. [Internet]. Perth: Walk Free; 2018 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.globalslaveryindex.org/2018/data/maps/#prevalence

  21. Palacios-Mateo C, van der Meer Y, et al. “Analysis of the polyester clothing value chain to identify key intervention points for sustainability”. Environmental Sciences Europe. 2021. 33: 2. https://enveurope.springeropen.com/articles/10.1186/s12302-020-00447-x

  22. Stanes F, Gibson C. Materials that linger: an embodied geography of polyester clothes. [Internet]. Wollongong (AU): University of Wollongong; 2017 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://ro.uow.edu.au/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=4097&context=sspapers&httpsredir=1&referer=

  23. Ingraffia R, Amato G, et al. “Polyester microplastic fibers in soil increase nitrogen loss via leaching and decrease plant biomass production and N uptake”. Environmental Research Letters. 2022. 17: 5. https://doi.org/10.1088/1748-9326/ac652d

  24. Sabanoglu T. Share in world exports of the leading clothing exporters 2021, by country. [Internet]. Hamburg: Statista; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.statista.com/statistics/1094515/share-of-the-leading-global-textile-clothing-by-country/

  25. Garment workers. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/garment-workers

  26. San Segundo I. Do you know how much garment workers really make?. [Internet]. London: Fashion Revolution; 2020 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.fashionrevolution.org/usa-blog/how-much-garment-workers-really-make/

  27. Greenley R. This is the reality of America’s fast-fashion addiction. [Internet]. New York: The New York Times; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.nytimes.com/2022/11/25/opinion/warehouse-fastfashion-return.html

  28. Pullar J. Just 10% of fashion brands pay their factory workers a living wage. [Internet]. Sydney: Elle Australia; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.elle.com.au/fashion/ethical-fashion-wages-27836

  29. Jackson S. Shein factory employees are working 18-hour days for pennies per garment and washing their hair on lunch breaks because they have so little time off, new report finds. [Internet]. New York: Business Insider; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.businessinsider.com/shein-factory-workers-18-hour-shifts-paid-low-wages-report-2022-10

  30. Hakansson E, Carter N, et al. Under their skin: leather’s impact on the planet. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/under-their-skin

  31. Hakansson E, Vance U, et al. Under their skin: leather’s impact on people. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/under-their-skin

  32. Hakansson E, Halliday C, et al. Under their skin: leather’s impact on animals. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/under-their-skin

  33. Slaughterhouse workers. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/slaughterhouse-workers

  34. Lebwohl M. A call to action: psychological harm in slaughterhouse workers. [Internet]. [Connecticut]: Yale Global Health Review; 2016 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://yaleglobalhealthreview.com/2016/01/25/a-call-to-action-psychological-harm-in-slaughterhouse-workers/

  35. Fitzgerald A, Kalof L, et al. “Slaughterhouses and increased crime rates: an empirical analysis of the spillover from ‘the jungle’ into the surrounding community”. Organization and Environment. 2009. https://doi.org/10.1177/1086026609338164

  36. SSIP is attempting to measure the biodegradability. [Internet]. Milan: Tannery Magazine; 2017 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://tannerymagazine.com/ssip-biodegradability/

  37. Hashmi G, Dastageer G, et al. “Leather industry and environment: Pakistan scenario”. 2017. 1 (2): 20-25. Available from: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/317381731_Leather_Industry_and_Environment_Pakistan_Scenario

How we view fashion and sustainability

  1. Lu Sheng. Clean energy and the fashion supply chain – latest corporate strategies. [Internet]. Bromsgrove: Just Style; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.just-style.com/features/free-to-read-clean-energy-and-the-fashion-supply-chain-latest-corporate-strategies/

  2. Deeley R. Fashion’s race for new materials. [Internet]. London: Business of Fashion; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.businessoffashion.com/case-studies/sustainability/materials-innovation-textiles-recycling-production/

  3. Granskog A, Laizet F, et al. Biodiversity: the next frontier in sustainable fashion. [Internet]. Helsinki: McKinsey; 2020 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/biodiversity-the-next-frontier-in-sustainable-fashion

  4. Brand engagement with next-gen materials: 2022 landscape. [Internet]. San Francisco: Material Innovation Initiative; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://materialinnovation.org/wp-content/uploads/Next-Gen-Materials_Brand-Engagement-Report_FINAL_2-1-2022.pdf

  5. Hakansson E. The IPCC’s mitigation of climate change report explained, and what it means for the fashion industry. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/articles/the-ipccs-mitigation-of-climate-change-report-explained-and-what-it-means-for-the-fashion-industry

  6. Synthetics. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/synthetics

  7. Poore J, Nemecek T. Reducing food’s environmental impacts through producers and consumers. Science. 2018. 360: 6392. 987-992. https://doi.org/10.1126/science.aaq0216

  8. Planet. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/planet

  9. Jacquet J. The meat industry is doing exactly what Big Oil does to fight climate action. [Internet]. Washington: The Washington Post; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.washingtonpost.com/outlook/the-meat-industry-is-doing-exactly-what-big-oil-does-to-fight-climate-action/2021/05/14/831e14be-b3fe-11eb-ab43-bebddc5a0f65_story.html

  10. Causes and effects of climate change. [Internet]. Geneva: United Nations; c2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.un.org/en/climatechange/science/causes-effects-climate-change

  11. Shukla P, Skea J, et al. Climate change 2022: mitigation of climate change. [Internet]. Nairobi: United Nations Environmental Programme; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.ipcc.ch/report/ar6/wg3/downloads/report/IPCC_AR6_WGIII_FullReport.pdf

  12. Jackson R, Saunois M, et al. “Increasing anthropogenic methane emissions arise equally from agricultural and fossil fuel sources”. Environmental Research Letters. 2020. 15. https://doi.org/10.1088/1748-9326/ab9ed2

  13. Lu X. Jacob D, et al. “Global methane budget and trend, 2010–2017: complementarity of inverse analyses using in situ (GLOBALVIEWplus CH4 ObsPack) and satellite (GOSAT) observations”. Atmospheric Chemistry and Physics. 2021. 21: 6. 4637-4657. https://doi.org/10.5194/acp-21-4637-2021

  14. Howarth R. “Methane emissions from fossil fuels: exploring recent changes in greenhouse-gas reporting requirements for the State of New York”. Journal of Integrative Environmental Sciences. 2019. 17: 3. 69-81. https://doi.org/10.1080/1943815X.2020.1789666

  15. Rearing cattle produces more greenhouse gases than driving cars, UN report warns. [Internet]. Rome: United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization; 2006 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://news.un.org/en/story/2006/11/201222-rearing-cattle-produces-more-greenhouse-gases-driving-cars-un-report-warns

  16. Hakansson E, Carter N, et al. Under their skin: leather’s impact on the planet. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/under-their-skin

  17. Wool. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/wool

  18. Shear destruction. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/shear-destruction

  19. Hakansson E. How do wool, lyocell and cotton knitwear compare, when it comes to land impact?. [Internet]. Melbourne: Circumfauna; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://circumfauna.org/fibre-land-comparisons

  20. Uncertified cellulose. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/uncertified-cellulose

  21. Roberts-Islam B. ‘Silenced data’ means we don’t know global impacts of cotton pesticides. [Internet]. Jersey City: Forbes; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.forbes.com/sites/brookerobertsislam/2021/12/06/silenced-data-means-we-dont-know-global-impacts-of-cotton-pesticides/?sh=244c3bf4668b

  22. Holgate B. Microfibre pollution in fashion: are synthetics all to blame?. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/articles/microfibre-pollution-in-fashion-are-synthetics-all-to-blame

  23. Al-Tohamy R, Ali S, et al. A critical review on the treatment of dye-containing wastewater: ecotoxicological and health concerns of textile dyes and possible remediation approaches for environmental safety. Ecotoxicology and Environmental Safety. 2022. 231. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ecoenv.2021.113160

  24. Survey: consumers want sustainable clothing. [Internet]. San Diego: Geno; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.genomatica.com/news-content/survey-consumers-want-sustainable-clothing/

  25. Consumers are confused about what ‘sustainability’ means in fashion, per new survey. [Internet]. New York: The Fashion Law; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.thefashionlaw.com/consumers-are-confused-about-what-sustainability-means-in-fashion-per-new-survey/

  26. Mandarić D, Hunjet A, et al. Perception of consumers’ awareness about sustainability of fashion brands. Journal of Risk and Financial Management. 2021. 14 (12): 594. https://doi.org/10.3390/jrfm14120594

  27. Sustainable fashion: a survey on global perspectives. [Internet]. Central Hong Kong: KPMG; 2019 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://assets.kpmg.com/content/dam/kpmg/cn/pdf/en/2019/01/sustainable-fashion.pdf

  28. Unsustainable consumption of fashion. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/mass-consumerism

  29. Webb B. Degrowth: the future that fashion has been looking for?/ [Internet]. London: Vogue Business; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.voguebusiness.com/sustainability/degrowth-the-future-that-fashion-has-been-looking-for

  30. What is a circular economy?. [Internet]. Isle of Wight (GB): Ellen Macarthur Foundation; c2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/topics/circular-economy-introduction/overview

  31. Konietzko J. Moving beyond carbon tunnel vision with a sustainability data strategy. [Internet]. Jersey City; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.forbes.com/sites/cognizant/2022/04/07/moving-beyond-carbon-tunnel-vision-with-a-sustainability-data-strategy/?sh=57ded0cc70a7

  32. Greenhouse gas emissions. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/greenhouse-gas-emissions

  33. Thomas L. As a black environmentalist, I wanted so much more from COP26. [Internet]. New York: Vogue; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.vogue.com/article/as-a-black-environmentalist-i-wanted-so-much-more-from-cop26

How we view fashion and ethics

  1. Chanel T. How fast-fashion and racism are intricately linked. [Internet]. San Francisco: Remake.world; 2020 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://remake.world/stories/news/how-fast-fashion-and-racism-are-intricately-linked/

  2. Hakansson E, Vance U, et al. Under their skin: leather’s impact on people. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/under-their-skin

  3. Indigenous land rights. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/indigenous-land-rights

  4. Rana Plaza. [Internet]. Amsterdam: Clean Clothes Campaign; c2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://cleanclothes.org/campaigns/past/rana-plaza

  5. Garment workers. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/garment-workers

  6. Legesse K. Racism is at the heart of fast fashion – it’s time for change. [Internet]. London: The Guardian; 2020 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/global-development/2020/jun/11/racism-is-at-the-heart-of-fast-fashion-its-time-for-change

  7. Silk. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/silk

  8. Kannuri N, Jadhav S. Generating toxic landscapes: impact on well-being of cotton farmers in Telangana, India. Anthropology and Medicine. 2018. 25: 1. 121-140. https://doi.org/10.1080/13648470.2017.1317398

  9. Wool. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/wool

  10. Cashmere. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/cashmere

  11. Bales K, Sovacool B. From forests to factories: how modern slavery deepens the crisis of climate change. Energy Research and Social Science. 2021. 77. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.erss.2021.102096

  12. Deforestation and biodiversity. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/deforestation-and-biodiversity

  13. Leather. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/leather

  14. Uncertified cellulose. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/uncertified-cellulose

  15. Hakansson E, Carter N, et al. Under their skin: leather’s impact on the planet. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/under-their-skin

  16. Greenfield P, Benato M. Animal populations experience average decline of almost 70% since 1970, report reveals. [Internet]. London: The Guardian; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2022/oct/13/almost-70-of-animal-populations-wiped-out-since-1970-report-reveals-aoe

  17. World statistical compendium for raw hides and skins, leather and leather footwear 1999-2015. [Internet]. Rome: United Nations Food and Agricultural Organization; 2016 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.fao.org/3/i5599e/i5599e.pdf

  18. Crops and livestock products. [Internet]. Rome: United Nations Food and Agricultural Organization; 2020 [cited 2022]. Available from: https://www.fao.org/faostat/en/#data/QCL

  19. Hakansson E. Cruelty is out of fashion: an overview of the fashion industry’s policies on wild animal products. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/fashion-wild-animal-exploitation

  20. Non-human animals. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/non-humans

  21. Low P, Panksepp J, Reiss D, et al. The Cambridge Declaration on Consciousness. [Internet]. Cambridge: Francis Crick Memorial Conference; 2012 [cited 2023]. Available from: http://fcmconference.org/img/CambridgeDeclarationOnConsciousness.pdf

  22. Donatella Versace signals end to use of real fur at fashion label. [Internet]. London: The Guardian; 2018 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/mar/15/donatella-versace-signals-real-fur-fashion-label

  23. Hakansson E, Halliday C, et al. Under their skin: leather’s impact on animals. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/under-their-skin

  24. Hakansson E. How veganism can save us. Melbourne: Hardie Grant; 2022.

  25. Joy M. Why we love dogs, eat pigs, and wear cows: an introduction to carnism. Miami: Conari Press; 2009.

  26. Hakansson E. Is the Responsible Wool Standard cruelty free? Is the ZQ wool certification free from harm?. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/articles/wool-standards-explained

  27. Down. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/down

  28. The Responsible Down Standard aims to protect ducks and geese used for down. [Internet]. Lamesa (US): Textile Exchange; c2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://textileexchange.org/responsible-down-standard/

  29. Hakansson E. What is the Leather Working Group certification, and does it make for sustainable and ethical leather?. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/articles/what-is-the-leather-working-group-certification-and-does-it-make-for-sustainable-and-ethical-leather

  30. Hakansson E. How to spot ethics-washing. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/articles/how-to-spot-ethics-washing

  31. Safe sheep handling guide. [Internet]. Wellington: WorkSafe New Zealand; 2017 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.worksafe.govt.nz/topic-and-industry/agriculture/working-with-animals/working-with-sheep/safe-sheep-handling-gpg/

  32. Code of practice for the care and handling of farmed fox. [Internet]. Lacombe (CA): National Farm Animal Care Council; 2013 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.nfacc.ca/codes-of-practice/farmed-fox-code

  33. Code of practice on the humane treatment of wild and farmed Australian crocodiles. [Internet]. Canberra: Natural Resource Management Ministerial Council; 2009 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.dcceew.gov.au/sites/default/files/documents/crocodile-code-practice.pdf

  34. Moran C. Trying to breed the ‘aggression’ out of cattle. [Internet]. Dublin: Agriland; 2016 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.agriland.ie/farming-news/trying-to-breed-the-aggression-out-of-cattle/

  35. Haskell M, Simm G, et al. “Genetic selection for temperament traits in dairy and beef cattle”. Frontiers in Genetics. 2014. 5. https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fgene.2014.00368/full

  36. Genetic estimates for temperament traits in sheep breeds. [Internet]. Sydney: Meat and Livestock Australia; 2007 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.mla.com.au/research-and-development/reports/2005/genetic-estimates-for-temperament-traits-in-sheep-breeds/

Sustaining injustice

  1. Hudd A. Dyeing for fashion: why the clothes industry is causing 20% of water pollution. [Internet]. Lyon (FR): Euronews; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.euronews.com/green/2022/02/26/dyeing-for-fashion-why-the-fashion-industry-is-causing-20-of-water-pollution

  2. Hakansson E, Halliday C, et al. Under their skin: leather’s impact on animals. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/under-their-skin

  3. Wool. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/wool

  4. Sparrow J. Eco-fascists and the ugly fight for ‘our way of life’ as the environment disintegrates. [Internet]. London: The Guardian; 2019 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2019/nov/30/eco-fascists-and-the-ugly-fight-for-our-way-of-life-as-the-environment-disintegrates

  5. Dominguez R, Naimark J, et al. Eco-fascism: a tangible and present danger. [Internet]. Washington: Earthworks; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://earthworks.org/blog/eco-fascism-a-tangible-present-danger/

  6. Crocodile skin. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/crocodile-skin

  7. Drop croc. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/drop-croc

  8. Donaghy T, Jiang C, et al. Fossil fuel racism. [Internet]. Washington: Greenpeace; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.greenpeace.org/usa/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/Fossil-Fuel-Racism.pdf

  9. Synthetics. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/synthetics

  10. Hakansson E, Vance U, et al. Under their skin: leather’s impact on people. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/under-their-skin

  11. Bales K, Sovacool B. From forests to factories: how modern slavery deepens the crisis of climate change. Energy Research and Social Science. 2021. 77. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.erss.2021.102096

  12. Cline E. Could living wages help solve fashion’s climate crisis? New research says yes. [Internet]. Jersey City: Forbes; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.forbes.com/sites/elizabethlcline/2022/01/17/could-living-wages-help-solve-fashions-climate-crisis-new-research-says-yes/?sh=2097b6506b27

  13. Conventional cotton. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/conventional-cotton

  14. Fragar L, Temperley J. The impact of biotechnology and other factors on health and safety in the Australian cotton industry. [Internet]. Sydney: The University of Sydney; 2008 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://aghealth.sydney.edu.au/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/impact_of_biotechnology_in_cotton_final_110208.pdf

  15. Kouser S, Qaim M. “Impact of Bt cotton on pesticide poisoning in smallholder agriculture: a panel data analysis”. Ecological Economics. 2011. 70: 11. 2105-2113. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ecolecon.2011.06.008

  16. Ritchie H. If the world adopted a plant-based diet we would reduce global agricultural land use from 4 to 1 billion hectares. [Internet]. Oxford: Our World in Data; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://ourworldindata.org/land-use-diets

  17. Hayek M, Harwatt H, et al. “The carbon opportunity cost of animal-soured food production on land”. Nature Sustainability. 2020. 4. 21-24. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41893-020-00603-4  

  18. Meredith S. The world’s in a ‘polycrisis’ – and these countries want to quash it by looking beyond GDP. [Internet]. Englewood Cliffs (US): CNBC; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.cnbc.com/2022/12/26/well-being-these-countries-are-looking-beyond-gdp-and-economic-growth.html

  19. Tobin K, Aguilar A. Beyond GDP: alternatives to capitalism already exist. [Internet]. Washington: Greenpeace; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.greenpeace.org/international/story/54859/beyond-gdpalternatives-to-capitalism-already-exist/

  20. Lee B, Butler B. Sorry, GDP. There are other ways to measure a nation’s worth. [Internet]. London: WIRED; 2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.wired.co.uk/article/happiness-measurement-humanity

  21. Hickel J. The World Bank is upset that Bhutan's old-growth forests are just standing there, doing nothing, when they could be turned into Ikea furniture. [Internet]. San Francisco: Twitter; 2020 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://twitter.com/jasonhickel/status/1317028075947892736?lang=en

  22. Nugent C. Amsteerdam is embracing a radical new economic theory to help save the environment. Could it also replace capitalism?. [Internet]. New York: Time; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://time.com/5930093/amsterdam-doughnut-economics/

  23. About doughnut economics. [Internet]. Oxford: Doughnut Economics Action Lab; c2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://doughnuteconomics.org/about-doughnut-economics

  24. Munro C. Is it possible to be anti-capitalist and love fashion? It’s complicated. [Internet]. New York: Refinery 29; 2020 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/fashion-social-change-brands-anti-capitalism

Total ethics fashion explained

  1. Chiu A. ‘Vegan’, ‘sustainable’, how to spot misleading fashion claims. [Internet]. Washington: The Washington Post; 2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.washingtonpost.com/climate-solutions/2023/01/25/greenwashing-fashion-clothes-vegan-sustainable/

  2. Shear destruction. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/shear-destruction

  3. Wool. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/wool

  4. Indigenous land rights. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/indigenous-land-rights

  5. Hakansson E, Halliday C, et al. Under their skin: leather’s impact on animals. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/under-their-skin

  6. Conventional cotton. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/conventional-cotton

  7. Hakansson E, Carter N, et al. Under their skin: leather’s impact on the planet. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/under-their-skin

Humans as animals

  1. Ritchie H. Humans make up just 0.01% of Earth’s life – what’s the rest?. [Internet]. Oxford: Our World in Data; 2019 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://ourworldindata.org/life-on-earth

  2. Hakansson E, Halliday C, et al. Under their skin: leather’s impact on animals. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/under-their-skin

  3. Marino L, Merskin D. “Intelligence, complexity and individuality in sheep”. Animal Sentience. 2019. 25: 1. Available from: https://www.wellbeingintlstudiesrepository.org/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1374&context=animsent

  4. Bekoff M. The rich emotional lives of chimpanzees and goats. [Internet]. New York: Psychology Today; 2019 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/blog/animal-emotions/201907/the-rich-emotional-lives-chimpanzees-and-goats

  5. Singer P. Practical ethics. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press; 1979.

  6. Monsó S, Benz-Schwarzburg J, et al. Animal morality: what it means and why it matters. The Journal of Ethics. 2018. 22: 3. 283-310. https://doi.org/10.1007%2Fs10892-018-9275-3

  7. Simpliciano L, Galvin M, et al. Fashion Transparency Index 2022. [Internet]. London: Fashion Revolution; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://issuu.com/fashionrevolution/docs/fti_2022

  8. Freire P. Pedagogy of the oppressed. New York: The Continuum International Publishing Group. 2005.

  9. Hakansson E. How veganism can save us. Melbourne: Hardie Grant; 2022.

  10. Slaughterhouse workers. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/slaughterhouse-workers

  11. Hakansson E, Vance U, et al. Under their skin: leather’s impact on people. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/under-their-skin

  12. Nagesh A. Confessions of a slaughterhouse worker. [Internet]. London: BBC; 2020 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.bbc.com/news/stories-50986683

  13. Chavez S. My first job was slitting the throats of chickens at a slaughterhouse. It changed me forever. [Internet]. San Francisco: San Francisco Chronicle; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.sfchronicle.com/opinion/openforum/article/My-first-job-was-slitting-the-throats-of-chickens-17017934.php

Animals as nature

  1. Holgate B. Microfibre pollution in fashion: are synthetics all to blame?. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/articles/microfibre-pollution-in-fashion-are-synthetics-all-to-blame

  2. Carrington D. Microplastics found in human blood for first time. [Internet]. London: The Guardian; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2022/mar/24/microplastics-found-in-human-blood-for-first-time

  3. TEDx Talks. Animals and the climate crisis: a missing perspective  | Ryuji Chua | TEDxWarwick. 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xz3jlu6SjXo

  4. Legal personhood factsheet. [Internet]. Sydney: Voiceless; c2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://voiceless.org.au/schools/legal-personhood/legal-personhood-factsheet/

  5. Conventional cotton. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/conventional-cotton

  6. Our story. [Internet]. New York: Nonhuman Rights Project; c2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.nonhumanrights.org/our-story/

  7. Roy E. New Zealand river granted same legal rights as human being. [Internet]. London: The Guardian; 2017 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/world/2017/mar/16/new-zealand-river-granted-same-legal-rights-as-human-being

  8. Torres-Spelliscy. The history of corporate personhood. [Internet]. New York: Brennan Center for Justice; 2014 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.brennancenter.org/our-work/analysis-opinion/history-corporate-personhood

  9. Quiggin J. Property rights, corporate personhood and nature. [Internet]. Turner
    (AU): Green Agenda; 2019 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://greenagenda.org.au/2019/04/corporate-personhood/

  10. Gratanni M, Sutton S, et al. “Indigenous environmental values as human value”s. Cogent Social Sciences. 2016. 2: 1. https://doi.org/10.1080/23311886.2016.1185811

  11. Indigenous land rights. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/indigenous-land-rights

  12. Wang X, Van der Werff, et al. “I am vs. we are: how biospheric values and environmental identity of individuals and groups can influence pro-environmental behaviour”. Frontiers in Psychology. 2021. 12. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpsyg.2021.618956

  13. Martin C, Czellar S. “Where do biospheric values come from? A connectedness to nature perspective”. Journal of Environmental Psychology. 2017. 52. 56-68. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jenvp.2017.04.009

  14. Bousman T, Steg L, et al. “Measuring values in environmental research: a test of an environmental portrait value questionnaire”. Frontiers in Psychology. 2018. 9: 564. https://doi.org/10.3389%2Ffpsyg.2018.00564

  15. Kingsley J, Townsend M, et al. “Exploring Aboriginal people’s connection to country to strengthen human-nature theoretical perspectives”. Advances in Medical Sociology. 2013. 15. Available from: https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/S1057-6290(2013)0000015006/full/html

  16. Responsibility. [Internet]. London: Ananas Anam; c2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.ananas-anam.com/responsibility/

  17. Russel M. Hyosung commercialises first bio-based spandex. Bromsgrove: Just Style; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.just-style.com/news/company-news/hyosung-commercialises-first-bio-based-spandex/

Innovation and just transition

  1. Wood B. Abolishing child labor took the specter of ‘white slavery’ and the job market’s near collapse during the Great Depression. [Internet]. Melbourne: The Conversation; 2020 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://theconversation.com/abolishing-child-labor-took-the-specter-of-white-slavery-and-the-job-markets-near-collapse-during-the-great-depression-144454

  2. Walker K. What happened to the world’s ozone hole?. [Internet]. London: BBC; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20220321-what-happened-to-the-worlds-ozone-hole

  3. Nenquimo N. This is my message to the western world – your civilisation is killing life on Earth. [Internet]. London: The Guardian; 2020 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2020/oct/12/western-worldyour-civilisation-killing-life-on-earth-indigenous-amazon-planet

  4. Hakansson E, Carter N, et al. Under their skin: leather’s impact on the planet. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/under-their-skin

  5. Amazkin. [Internet]. Lima: Amazkin; c2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.theamazkin.com/#

  6. Hakansson E, Gladman S, et al. Under their skin: a just transition beyond leather. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2023 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/under-their-skin

  7. Nanollose creates sweater made from coconut waste. [Internet]. Nantwich (GB): Knitting Industry; 2018 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.knittingindustry.com/nanollose-creates-sweater-made-from-coconut-waste/

  8. Shear destruction. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2021 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/shear-destruction

  9. Cataneo E. How an ex-coal mining town is turning to ecotourism to rebuild its economy. [Internet]. London: The Guardian; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2022/apr/05/virginia-coal-ex-mining-town-plans-rebuild-economy

  10. Muhlke C. Can fashion be profitable without growth?. [Internet] New York: The New York Times; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.nytimes.com/2022/12/07/business/dealbook/fashion-profitable-growth.html

  11. Unsustainable consumption of fashion. [Internet]. Melbourne: Collective Fashion Justice; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.collectivefashionjustice.org/mass-consumerism

  12. Vivienne Westwood: “be reasonable, demand the impossible”. [Internet]. Lisbon: Impossible.labs; 2016 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://medium.com/@impossible/vivienne-westwood-be-reasonable-demand-the-impossible-8d9473195b08

What we can do next

  1. Muhlke C. Can fashion be profitable without growth?. [Internet] New York: The New York Times; 2022 [cited 2023]. Available from: https://www.nytimes.com/2022/12/07/business/dealbook/fashion-profitable-growth.html